Crochet Christmas Tree Stocking Free Pattern

Christmas Tree Crochet Stocking Free Pattern

This rustic crochet stocking pattern features a scrumptiously textured bobble Christmas tree! This stocking will be a cozy, farmhouse inspired addition to your holiday decor.

Scroll down for the free pattern or read on to hear more about my inspiration for this pattern and the materials you will need to make one of your own!

Click here to pin this pattern for later!

Crochet Stocking Inspiration

If you’ve been following along on my blog for a bit, you might have recognized that this stocking design is sort of a spin-off of another recent design of mine – The Bobble Pumpkin Pillow.

I just love the textural contrast you get with 3D bobbles popping off the flat backdrop! And I think it’s so fun (and sometime frustrating…) to work out how to make shapes using different crochet stitches. Honestly, I’ve been crocheting for almost 20 years and I am still continuously amazed at what you can do with this craft!

Close up of crochet christmas stocking

Designing a crochet stocking has been on my bucket list for a LONG time. I remember having my first baby and having glorious ambitions of making crochet stockings for the whole family. That baby is now 10 years old and I’m just getting around to the Christmas stocking idea. Better late than never! I just think it is so special to add handmade touches to holidays and family traditions. It’s like a built in heirloom!

Crochet Stocking Pattern

So, at some point in September, the crochet stocking idea and the bobble image idea fused in my brain and the Bobble Christmas Tree Stocking was born.

Design

I wanted something with a simple stitch pattern and color scheme for the backdrop to really let the bobble texture be the star of the show. I kept the toe and heel the same color as the rest of the stocking to further highlight the tree design, but you could totally customize this how ever you want! I absolutely LOVE to see how makers change up my patterns to make something that speaks to them!

I finished the top of the stocking with a basic hdc-blo ribbing because it is my favorite ribbing of all time and I think it fits with the modern farmhouse style I was going for. Add a little single crochet hanging tab, and you’ve got a sweet, simple, and cozy stocking to treasure for years to come.

Crocheting a ribbed cuff for a Christmas Tree Stocking

Yarn and Construction

I usually try to design my patterns to work with a wide variety of yarns, but this is one that is a little more specific.

I used WeCrochet’s Snuggle Puff yarn for the main body of the crochet stocking and I recommend you use this yarn or something very similar to get the expected stocking size I have listed in the pattern. This is because Snuggle Puff (4 weight) is actually categorized as a “heavy” worsted weight yarn and using a regular worsted weight could result in a too-small stocking. If you have a thicker worsted you want to try, I recommend double checking your gauge to ensure your stocking will be big enough to hold all those Christmas goodies!

Crochet Stocking made with Snuggle Puff Yarn

This pattern is rated as intermediate, but don’t let that deter you if you are a more casual crocheter – you can do this! The stocking is worked from the toe up, starting in rounds, then the heel flap is made working in rows, and rounds are resumed for the leg of the stocking. It sounds a bit confusing, but the pattern will walk you through it step-by-step! Written instructions as well as a chart are included for the color work portion. And then the cuff is worked separately and sl st’d to attach it to the top of the stocking. I would say the average crocheter could finish this crochet stocking in 2.5 – 3 hours.

Christmas Stocking Crochet Pattern

I hope this crochet stocking pattern inspires you to make something handmade for the holidays this year!

You can find a printable PDF download version of the Christmas Tree Crochet Stocking pattern on Etsy and Ravelry!

A video tutorial is now available for this pattern!

Christmas Tree Crochet Stocking Free Pattern

Skill Level

Intermediate: this pattern requires color changes and uses a variety of stitch techniques, including bobbles, increases and decreases and working in the back loop only. You will need to be familiar with working in the round and working in rows. 

MATERIALS

  • Yarn:
    • About 325 yards of worsted weight yarn (4) for the body of the stocking. I used just under 2.5 balls of WeCrochet’s “Snuggle Puff” (70% cotton/30% nylon, 142yds/50g per ball) in the color Lamb. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: Although Snuggle Puff is listed as a 4 weight yarn, it is categorized as “Heavy Worsted Weight” so if you are using a thinner 4 weight yarn, please be sure to check your gauge. I do recommend using Snuggle Puff or other “heavy” worsted weight yarn to ensure correct sizing.

  • About 50 yards of worsted weight yarn in a contrasting color for the tree bobbles. I used green scrap yarn. You will also need a small amount (2-3 yards) of brown yarn for the tree trunk.

Measurements

The finished stocking is approximately 18” tall and 7” wide.

GAUGE

15 sts x 11 rows = 4” square using half double crochet

and/or

After Round 5, the diameter of the circle should measure 4.75”.

NOTES

  • This stocking is worked in rounds from the toe up. The heel is worked in rows and then the leg continues in rounds. The ribbed cuff is worked separately in rows and then attached to the top of the leg.
  • IMPORTANT!! The “turn/do not turn” directions are crucial for this pattern. Please pay close attention to the turning directions after every round/row.
  • For all color changes: when working the last stitch of the “old” color, stop before the last “pull through” of the stitch (for sc there will be two loops left on the hook; for hdc there will be three loops; for bobble you will have five loops left on the hook), pull through with the “new” color and continue with the pattern. When instructed to “carry” the unused yarn, you will lay the unused color on top of the row you are working into and crochet over it.
  • Note that you will be looking at the “wrong side” of the bobbles when you are making them. 
  • Since the “wrong side” of the colorwork will be on the inside of the stocking, you do not need to cut/weave in the yarn when changing color.  I dropped the yarn when not in use and carried it over the back of the work to pick up the next time I needed it. This is personal preference, feel free to cut and weave in if you would like a neater stocking interior.
  • Tip: Roll a ball of the green yarn (about 40-50 yards) to use for the color work. To avoid tangles, keep the ball in the toe of the stocking when not in use.
  • The ch 1 at the beginning of each round/row does NOT count as a stitch.
  • Notes about half double crochet (hdc):
    • The hdc stitch has the typical “V” on top formed by the front loop and the back loop, but it also has a “3rd loop” (the loop nearest you, running parallel to the “front loop”). For most of the rounds, you will work into the front and back loop, as usual, ignoring the 3rd loop. For Rounds 2-6, I chose to work into the “3rd loop” and the front loop only (ignoring the back loop). This avoids the extra line that forms on your work if the 3rd loop is unused. This is personal preference, but it does make the finished piece look more uniform.
  • The hdc stitch has a natural slant. To help offset this and keep the colorwork straight, we will start each round of the stocking leg with a hdc-dec and end each round with a hdc-inc. This will make your seam a little bulkier, but it will be on the back of your stocking. You can watch a helpful video here explaining how and why this is necessary for hdc in the round.
  • Special Stitches:
    • Bobble (bo) aka: dc4tog cluster – [Yarn over (YO) and insert hook into desired stitch, YO and pull through the stitch, now YO and pull through two loops] 4 times in same stitch.  With 5 loops on hook, YO and pull through all 5 loops. Stitch is complete. Your next stitch will be a SC. Watch a video tutorial of this stitch here.
  • Increase (Inc) – work two stitches into the same stitch.
  • Decrease (Dec) –
    • For single crochet: insert your hook into the first st, yo and pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all three loops.
    • For half double crochet: yo and insert your hook into the first st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and insert hook into next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through all 5 loops.
  • Pattern written in US terms.
  • Abbreviations:
    • blo = back loop only
    • bo = bobble
    • ch = chain
    • dec = decrease
    • hdc = half double crochet
    • inc = increase
    • sc =single crochet
    • sl st = slip stitch 
    • st =stitch
    • yo = yarn over

CROCHET STOCKING PATTERN

Toe:

With an I hook and white yarn (or your main color of choice), make a magic circle.

Round 1: 10 hdc in magic circle. Join to 1st hdc with sl st. Ch 1, do not turn. <10 hdc>

Round 2: Hdc-inc in each stitch. Join with a sl st. Ch 1, do not turn. <20 hdc>

Round 3: Work [Hdc-inc in first st, 1 hdc in next st] 10 times. Join with a sl st. Ch 1, do not turn. <30hdc>

Round 4: Work [Hdc-inc in first st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts] 10 times. Join with a sl st. Ch 1, do not turn. <40hdc>

Round 5: Work [Hdc-inc in first st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts] 10 times. Join with a sl st. Ch 1, do not turn. <50hdc>

Stop here and check for gauge. The diameter of your circle after Round 5 should measure 4.75 inches.

Check Gauge after Round 5

Round 6: 1 hdc in each st. Join with a sl st. Ch 1. <50hdc>

IMPORTANT!! **TURN YOUR WORK**

Rounds 7-18: 1 hdc in each st (Tip: for Round 7, place your first hdc in the 50th st of Round 6, NOT the sl st). Join with a sl st. Ch 1, do not turn. <50hdc>

Toe of Crochet Stocking

IMPORTANT!! After Round 18, **TURN YOUR WORK** and continue to heel instructions. (This turn will ensure that your bobbles are on the correct side.)

Heel

The heel is made continuing with the I hook and white yarn, but we will now be working in rows. We will go back to rounds after the heel portion is complete.

Row 1: Sc in the first st (not the sl st) and in the next 19 sts. Ch 1, turn your work. <20 sc>

Row 2: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. <20 sc>

Row 3: Sc in the first 6 sts, sc-dec, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc-dec, sc in the last 6 sts. Ch 1, turn. <18 sts>

Row 4: Sc in the first 7 sts, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc in the last 7 sts. Ch 1, turn. <18 sts>

Row 5: Sc in the first 5 sts, sc-dec, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc-dec, sc in the last 5 sts. Ch 1, turn. <16 sts>

Row 6: Sc in the first 6 sts, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc in the last 6 sts. Ch 1, turn. <16 sts>

Row 7: Sc in the first 4 sts, sc-dec, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc-dec, sc in the last 4 sts. Ch 1, turn. <14 sts>

Row 8: Sc in the first 5 sts, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc in the last 5 sts. Ch 1, turn. <14 sts>

Row 9: Sc in the first 3 sts, sc-dec, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc-dec, sc in the last 3 sts. Ch 1, turn. <12 sts>

Row 10: Sc in the first 2 sts, sc-dec, hdc in the next 4 sts, sc-dec, sc in the last 2 sts. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <10 sts>

Heel of crochet stocking

Leg of Stocking

Still using I hook and white yarn, we will resume working in rounds by crocheting around the heel flap and the unused sts of Round 18. 

Round 19: Tilt your work so that you are working down the sides of the heel rows. Evenly space 5 hdc down the sides of the rows (about one every other row).

Tilt work so that you are working in the unused sts of Round 18. 1 Hdc in the next 30 sts.

Tilt work so that you are working back up the other side of the heel. Evenly space 5 hdc along the row ends. 

Tilt work so that you are working across the Row 10 of the heel. 1 Hdc in the next 10 sts. Sl st to the first hdc of the round to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 hdc>

For the rest of the leg rounds, we will start each round with a hdc-dec and end each round with a hdc-inc. This will help to keep the color work portion of the stocking straight. Please see the Notes section of this pattern for more info on this technique.

Rounds 20 – 23: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, work 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Join with a sl st. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 hdc> 

We will now begin the color work portion of the leg. The written instructions are below and you can use this chart to help guide you. You can see that even with the inc/dec technique, the color work pattern still has to be offset to account for the remaining slant. Don’t worry, it’ll all work out!

Round 24: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 27 sts (on the last step of 27th hdc, pull through with brown), 1 hdc in the next 4 sts using brown (switch to white), hdc in the next 16 hdc using white, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 hdc>

Starting color work christmas tree

Round 25: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 27 sts (switch to brown), 1 hdc in the next 3 sts using brown (switch to white), hdc in the next 17 hdc using white, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 hdc>

Round 26: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 20 sts (switch to green), work [bo in the next st, sc in next] 8 times (on the 8th bobble, pull through with white and work the last sc with white), 1 hdc in the next 11 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 sts>

Round 27: Hdc-dec over first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50hdc>

Bobble Christmas tree rows

Round 28: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 20 sts (switch to green), work [bo in the next st, sc in next] 7 times (on the 7th bobble, pull through with white and work the last sc with white), 1 hdc in the next 13 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 sts>

Round 29: Hdc-dec over first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50hdc>

Round 30: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 20 sts (switch to green), work [bo in the next st, sc in next] 6 times (on the 6th bobble, pull through with white and work the last sc with white), 1 hdc in the next 15 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 sts>

Round 31: Hdc-dec over first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50hdc>

Round 32: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 20 sts (switch to green), work [bo in the next st, sc in next] 5 times (on the 5th bobble, pull through with white and work the last sc with white), 1 hdc in the next 17 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 sts>

Round 33: Hdc-dec over first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50hdc>

Round 34: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 20 sts (switch to green), work [bo in the next st, sc in next] 4 times (on the 4th bobble, pull through with white and work the last sc with white), 1 hdc in the next 19 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 sts>

Round 35: Hdc-dec over first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50hdc>

Round 36: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 20 sts (switch to green), work [bo in the next st, sc in next] 3 times (on the 3rd bobble, pull through with white and work the last sc with white), 1 hdc in the next 21 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 sts>

Round 37: Hdc-dec over first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50hdc>

Round 38: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 20 sts (switch to green), work [bo in the next st, sc in next] 2 times (on the 2nd bobble, pull through with white and work the last sc with white), 1 hdc in the next 23 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 sts>

Round 39: Hdc-dec over first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50hdc>

Round 40: Hdc-dec over the first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 20 sts (switch to green), work [bo in the next st, sc in next] once (pull through the bobble with white and work the sc with white), 1 hdc in the next 25 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50 sts>

Rounds 41 – 49: Hdc-dec over first 2 sts, 1 hdc in the next 47 sts, hdc-inc in the last st. Sl st to join. Ch 1, DO NOT TURN. <50hdc>

Round 50: Sc in each st. Fasten off and weave in the end. <50 sc>

main body of stocking

Cuff

With G hook and white yarn, chain 19.

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd chain from hook and in each ch. Ch 1, turn. <18 hdc>

Rows 2 – 43: Hdc in the blo in each st. Ch 1, turn. <18hdc>

You should now have a long rectangle of ribbing. Fold it in half lengthwise and align the two short ends. To join the ribbing, insert your hook under the front loop of the row nearest you and the back loop of the row farthest from you and slip stitch through both. Continue slip stitching across until the two ends are  joined. Do not cut yarn. <18 sl st>

Crochet stocking cuff is hdc in the back loop only

Attaching Cuff

  • Insert the circular cuff into the top opening of the crochet stocking, with the seam towards the back. The top of the cuff row ends should be flush with the top of the stocking leg. 
  • With the working yarn, ch 1 and sl st through the top of the cuff AND through the top row of the stocking leg (Note: you will be working through the ends of the cuff rows so you will need to choose your own spaces to insert your hook. Try to choose a spot at the end of each hdc row).
  • Since we have 43 hdc row ends and 50 scs at the top of the stocking leg, you will need to skip 6-7 scs when joining. I tried to evenly space out the skipped scs. 
  • Continue sl st around to join the cuff to the stocking. 
  • Fasten off, weave in ends, and flip the cuff to the outside of the stocking.
Attaching cuff to stocking with slip stitch

Hanging Tab

With G hook and white yarn, ch 4.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch. Ch 1, turn. <3 sc>

Rows 2- 24: Sc in each st. Ch 1, turn. <3 sc>

At the end of Row 24, fasten off, leaving a 12” tail.

Attaching hanging tab to christmas crochet stocking

Fold the tab in half lengthwise and use the long tail and a yarn needle to sew the tab to the top of the stocking. Your crochet stocking is finished!

Crochet stocking free pattern


I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Tag me on Instagram @theknottednest to share your project. For more handmade Christmas decor, check out my Christmas Tree and Star Garland on the blog! Or you can find more project ideas and patterns from The Knotted Nest at www.knottednest.com.

Happy making!

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COPYRIGHT The Bobble Christmas Tree Stocking  pattern and photographs are property of The Knotted Nest and are for personal, non-commercial use only. You may not alter, share, or sell this pattern in any way. However you are welcome to sell the finished product you produce using this pattern. Please credit The Knotted Nest by including a link to the pattern listing if selling the finished piece online.

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12 Comments

  • Suzy

    Hi Nikki! I just love the Christmas tree stocking. I’m making it now and I am wondering about the green yarn. Did you cut it after each round or somehow carry it over? I don’t know how to do that so any tips would be appreciated! Beautiful work!

    • theknottednest

      Hi Suzy!
      I just carried the green over the back of the work. So when I finished making the bobbles in a row, I just dropped the green yarn without cutting (I actually rolled a little ball of green and kept in in the toe of the stocking when i wasn’t using it, haha). Just continue crocheting around with the white as usual, with the green just hanging there. Then, when you are ready to make more bobbles, just pull up the green yarn and use it to make the pull through for the color change. Then just make the bobbles as usual. This will make a diagonal line of yarn across the back of your bobbles, but since it’s inside the stocking, you won’t see it. It can be a little awkward to pull it up and start working with it again, but just see what feels right (make sure the diagonal line isn’t too tight). Of course, you could always cut the yarn and reattach when you need it, but I find carrying is a lot less work!
      Hope that helps!
      Nikki

    • Jessica

      Hello! I recently purchased this pattern on Etsy and I love it ! I was having trouble with Row 20 of the pattern. Should my row end at the corner of the heel? I think I have less than 47 stitches from each side of the heel going around right to left. I guess I was just wondering if it matters where the Decrease and increase end up ? Thank you !

      • theknottednest

        Hmmm, it sounds like you might need to double check Round 19 and make sure you have 50 stitches total there. R19 is the round that joins the top/sides of the heel flap together with the main body of the stocking. In R19, you work 5 hdc down the sides of the heel flap rows, then 30 hdcs around the unused stitches of Round 18, then 5 hdc up the other side of the heel rows, then 10 hdc across the top of the heel flap. This should give you a total of 50 hdc. Then, you will start R20 with a decrease, then work 47 hdcs around, then finish with an increase in the last stitch. This should still give you 50 sts total. And yes the dec/inc will be at the corner of the heel for this round. It slants a bit as you go, but it should be at the corner of the heel to start. Does that help?

        • theknottednest

          Hi! Snuggle puff is made by WeCrochet and only sold online. If you click the link in the materials section of the pattern above, it will take you right to the page where you can order! If you prefer to buy a substitution in store, id recommended Red Heart Chunky, Red Heart Soft Essentials, or the new Caron O’Go. Hope that helps!
          Nikki

  • Courtney

    I’m having an issue. I’ve followed exactly, but my tree is not in the correct spot. It’s off by at least two stitches. I did notice that my seam up until the heel was straight and after that it has a definite slant. I’m wondering if there is something about the way I’m crocheting that makes it so I don’t need to do the decrease and increase compensation for the slanting? Any input?

    • theknottednest

      Hi! Sorry you’re having trouble with the pattern! Since your heel seam was straight, it does sound like maybe something you’re doing is naturally compensating for the hdc slant. I think it’s worth a try to omit the dec/inc on the tree rows and see if that helps fix the position of your trees.I hope it works!

  • Theresa Krawczyk

    On the tree garland pattern….did you use more of a Jade and light jade color yarn? I’m having a hard time finding greens that complement each other.

    • theknottednest

      I would say the lighter is more of a sage green and the darker leans more toward hunter green. I wish I could give specifics, but I used yarn that bought on a trip to Shanghai so I don’t have a brand name or anything. I feel like it’s hard to find yarn with a nice green color! I think it’s a missed opportunity for yarn companies! I know Red Heart has a pretty wide variety of greens, maybe try them? Lion brand has some yarns with unique greens, but they tend to be a bit more pricey. I’m sorry I couldn’t be more help!

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